This trip had been in the works for over a year. Before our wedding, we encouraged people to give money rather than physical gifts. We knew that we would not be able to take much to Denmark, and we would need to make some purchases once there. One special purchase was a set of beautiful dishes inspired by the work of my favorite architect,
Charles Rennie Mackintosh. He worked in and near Glasgow, Scotland around the turn of the 20th century. Beyond basic architectural design, he (with help from his wife Margaret) also designed much of the furniture, art, wallpaper, and other items in his buildings. Several years ago, we saw the above mentioned dishes while on a trip to Glasgow, and they stuck in my memory. Some of the money given by friends and family was set aside specially to get these wonderful items.
Street in Edinburgh
Edinburgh Street with Castle Beyond
Both Matt and I have been to Scotland before. We visited Glasgow together and Edinburgh separately. So for this trip, we decided to see both cities as well as a bit of the countryside. Our flight to Edinburgh was on Sunday, August 23 with a return on Friday, August 28. The small airline we used only flies twice a week (Sun. & Fri.) between Copenhagen and Edinbugh, so I joked with Matt that if he acted up, I would take the next flight back to Denmark. Once arriving in the center of Edinburgh, we walked the surprisingly long distance to our bed and breakfast to settle in and rest up for a busy week. The month of August is festival time in Edinburgh, so hotels in the very center are rare and expensive. We found a reasonable place that had a very friendly owner and nice breakfast.
Piano Cycle in Edinburgh
Our first day was spent entirely in the city center. After breakfast, we rushed over to the
Fringe Festival Box Office. The Fringe is one of seven or so festivals happening simultaneously around town during August. Each festival is kind of interwoven with the others. At any time of day, there are probably 50-100 different shows occurring (comedy, plays, musical acts, etc.). We purchased tickets for that evening to see a comedy show featuring
Kristen Schaal (the fan, Mel, from
Flight of the Concords). Our next activity was a two and a half hour walking tour of the Royal Mile (High Street, stretching from the medieval Edinburgh Castle to Holyrood House, where the Queen stays occasionally). The volunteer tour guide was a retired local who loves his city and its history. The tours are offered for free during August, so it seemed crazy not to go. We grabbed a fried lunch after the tour and headed to one of the many "free" comedy shows. I say "free" because the performers stand at the exit with a bucket and starving looks on their faces as the audience leaves. We found the free shows to be entertaining, but they were definitely not at the level of quality achieved by the shows with an entrance fee. The rest of the afternoon was spent wandering the Royal Mile. The city was full of people, and the Royal Mile was partially closed to cars allowing for many outdoor performance areas. After a decent mussel dinner, we claimed a place in line for Double Down Hearts (Kristen Schaal). It was very funny. Kristen has amazing energy.
I just want to pay a compliment to the organizers of the Fringe. The program is overwhelming due to the outrageous number of shows, but they have devised ways to make it easier on visitors. Each day, they publish a newspaper with the listings arranged by time, and a very clear map showing the venue locations. Each venue displays a large sign with their venue number. It makes planning and finding shows easy.
Our second full day started with a train ride to
Stirling Castle. The castle is one of Scotland's most important fortifications. The existing buildings are from the 15th and 16th centuries. After the royals left, the military moved in. They were in residence until the 1960s. Big efforts are still being made to restore the buildings to their original condition. We ended our visit with a presentation by the weavers in the tapestry studio. They, along with a studio at the
West Sussex College, are working steadily to recreate the castle's famous
Hunt of the Unicorn tapestries. Matt was even fascinated by the techniques and beautiful end product. During our return to Edinburgh, we made a stop in a small town, Falkirk. My former coworker, who is Scottish and shares our love of nerdy things, introduced me a couple of years ago to the
Falkirk Wheel. When Scotland decided to reconstruct the canals that ran between Edinburgh and Glasgow, they came up with a great idea to avoid a series of traditional locks. Boats approach the wheel from either side and park in a giant tub of water. Once everything is closed, the wheel turns, bringing the ships up or down like a ferris wheel. We were too late to ride the tour boat, but we did get to watch it make a full revolution. Once back in town, we went to quite possibly the tiniest pub in Scotland to see a local Scottish-American folk singer,
David Ferrard. He has a beautiful voice and a kindness that just radiates from him. We were a small international group in a small basement room, and we all got to sing along on several songs. The night ended with Indian food and another free comedy show.
Cyndi & Matt at the Falkirk Wheel
Wednesday was our travel day. We brought our bags into town and caught a few more shows before our train. One was a play called
Antione and the Paper Airplane. It was a mix of pantomime, puppets, and interesting sound effects that told the story of the hallucinations of a downed pilot in the dessert. Our other show was a comedy lineup where the performers were basically there promoting their individual shows. The emcee was horribly annoying, but some of the actual acts were really funny. There was a girl who sang funny songs that she had written about love. The other memorable guy did a bit about the Welsh people, and he then asked where Matt and I were from (the dangers of sitting at the front). He was able to play off my being from Georgia and went into this quite funny bit comparing the country of Georgia's relationship with Russia to a
Matryoshka doll. By the time that we arrived in Glasgow, we found our B&B there in time to hunt for dinner. Someday, I'd like to figure out the mystery of dinner in Glasgow. I can only assume that things are better in the suburbs, but the city center is closed and dead after 6 or 7pm. We settled on a Mussel restaurant since it was the only non-fastfood/non-gourmet/non-hotel restaurant that we could find.
Cyndi & Matt by Music Room Piano (House for an Art Lover)
House for an Art Lover Music Room
Our last full day, Thursday, was the day devoted to Mackintosh. We bought passes that gave us entrance to his buildings as well as coverage on the buses and metro. The first stop was The House For An Art Lover. Mackintosh submitted drawings for this house in a competition in the early 1900s. His design was the clear favorite, but since he hadn't met the competition's requirements, he was awarded a different prize. In the 1980s a man decided to build the house according to the limited drawings developed for the competition. My favorite part is the music room that houses the piano whose ornamentation I used for all of my wedding graphics. I asked a couple to take a photo of Matt and me in front of the piano. I explained its significance, and we had a nice discussion about Mackintosh's buildings. Our next stop was for lunch. Mackintosh designed two locations of the
Willow Tea Rooms in Glasgow. We had eaten at both during our previous visit, but we had arrived at the Sauchiehall Street location before they started seating in the famous Salon de Luxe. We were instead seated in the more masculine mezzanine space. This time, I wanted to have lunch in the room so special that when it was built, patrons would pay an extra penny for their tea to sit there. When we saw the hostess, she looked around the mezzanine and said they were full at the moment. We told her that we were really wanting the other dining room and found out that there was no wait for that room. They apparently were not bothering to seat people in there unless they insisted. It was a great experience and nice food. We then hopped a bus for Queen's Cross Church. It was not open on our previous visit, but this time, we got to go inside. Before we left, we were approached by the Mackintosh Society's marketing guru. We had a long discussion about why the
Glasgow School of Art draws more visitors. I blame the location of the church being away from the walkable center and very little information being available on how to find the correct bus. The last Mackintosh site for the day was the elusive Daily Record Building. We had searched for it before, without success. This time, a lady noticed me wandering around confused in the rain and informed me that the map we had was incorrect. After much more wandering around with her advice, we finally found the tiny alley that is two small to appear on most maps. I could tell that it was a Mackintosh building, but it looks nothing like the
beautiful rendering that he made showing the design. Dinner was another round of Indian food. The restaurant we visited is said to be the first to serve
Chicken Tikka Masala. It was very good, but I was quite sick for a day or two (possibly from eating too much), so I my enjoyment was a little impaired.
Cyndi in the Salon de Luxe (Willow Tea Room)
Matt in the Salon de Luxe (Willow Tea Room)
Daily Record Building (vs. rendering)
Friday morning, our main goal was to get back to Edinburgh for our flight. By that time, we had made our decision about purchasing dishes. After all, that WAS the purpose for the trip. The only place where we had seen any for sale was at a shop in Edinburgh. They could ship to the states and were willing to work with us through email. As of yesterday, we have ordered eight gorgeous "breakfast" sets. Each set includes a salad sized plate, a good size bowl, a mug, and an egg holder. I figure I can find a simple white dinner plate to coordinate, and if you stay in my home in the future, I might make you eat a boiled egg at breakfast. If you have any creative alternate uses for egg holders, I'd love to hear them!